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How to read an ingredients list

5 Apr 20265 min read

Ingredients lists are written in a standardised format governed by INCI nomenclature. Once you understand the logic, reading them becomes a reliable way to evaluate any product before purchase.

INCI, the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, is the global standard for labelling cosmetic formulations. Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration down to one percent. Below one percent, they can appear in any order. This means the first five ingredients typically account for the majority of what you are applying.

Fillers are common in mass-market formulations. Aqua (water) at position one is not inherently negative, but water followed by silicones and glycols before any active ingredient suggests a product with a low active load. Conversely, a product listing a named oil, butter, or extract within the first three positions is generally more concentrated in what it claims to deliver.

Two things to look for beyond position: the presence of irritants, particularly synthetic fragrance listed as Parfum or Fragrance, which is a catch-all for undisclosed compounds; and the form of active ingredients, since some are more bioavailable than others. Vitamin E listed as Tocopherol is more effective than Tocopheryl Acetate. These distinctions separate a functional formulation from a well-marketed one.